by Josie Conrad
Nestling under looming peaks of the Langeberg, Swellendam is the most mouthwateringly lovely, unspoilt small town in South Africa. It looks set to stay this way, as Heritage Western Cape keeps a tight rein on its historic thatched buildings. There are plenty of these. This is the third oldest magisterial district in South Africa, officially established in 1745.
Visions of paradise-on-earth are everywhere. From vast peaks to waterfalls cascading into mountain pools, to the ancient thatched town lined with great oaks, the place seems at first only to be inhabited by the occasional cow munching dreamily in a green field. For remote workers, it’s heaven. Imagine being this close to staggering natural wonders and dreamy cows every time you take a break from your laptop.
The extent to which Swellendam is set up for European tourists reminds me of Venice. The Glorious Past can be imagined here without effort. This is alluring but has its drawbacks, as the Glorious Past is not just a fantasy, but a very selective, imperialist fantasy, glorious to only a few.
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Most of the sumptuous eateries lining the main road open sharply at 8am.But for those with big hiking, travel or work plans for the day,
In the immortal words of Anthony Bourdain, “You want to go to a place where there’s locals only eating there, that look like they go
Copyright 2021 ® Josie Conrad